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I get some mockery of my speed of de-rigging
and vanishing from events (particularly after forgetting my sail in Devon at
the Nationals) but it is the flip side of trying to make the rigging
process as easy and fast as possible.
The points below came from
cruising with the previous Classic rig, wanting as much time as possible on
the water, and rigging single-handedly. I hope now to have the current boat
ready to take down to the water’s edge around 45 minutes from driving up.
The three things I think I do differently are:
Keeping the shroud tackles, with the mast heel line, set up on the trampoline. (This is basically
an example of “packaging”, to have as few steps as possible on the day, and
to avoid having to sort out tangles.)
Raising
the mast as one piece
Rigging the mast on the hull frame before attaching
the hulls
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Keeping the shroud tackles in position
on the trampoline
I
came to this gradually, starting with the need to tie up the
shroud tackle ropes tightly to stop the blocks “flipping” and
tangling the lines.
It was then logical to tie them tightly in a bundle on each side
of the trampoline, at the position they are on the boat, and to
leave the mast heel line running across the trampoline in the
sailing position.
(I have tied these as a bundle, but tangling could also be
prevented by pulling in the leads until the blocks are tightly
together, although this takes a little more time.)
This is one example of “packaging”, with the
double aim of having things already in place to minimise trips
to the car, and of avoiding sorting out tangles.
The folded trampoline deck also contains the forestay bridle,
the mainsheet, towrope, and the bag of bolts and marlinspike.
(I don’t use a sailing bag for the boat)
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Raising the mast
Tipping the boat to rig the topmast has always seemed the most
awkward part of the process.
I tried various ways of lifting the Classic rig and sail into position. I
first tied
the foot of the mast to lower and then re-raise the mast and
sail (using
the Classic rig where the sail wraps around the mast) going
under bridges down
the Thames in stages, from Oxford to the tidewaters
For
assembling the up-to-date boat now, the mast ball can be tied down over the
socket so that it pivots in as the mast is raised in own piece.
(Even if it pops out, it is easily lifted in when vertical.)
As
well as the ease of fitting the mast together on the ground,
another bonus is being able to set up the twin halliards, tied
tautly, ready to raise the sail, without extra unwinding after
the mast is up, gazing into the sky.
(The photo at the bottom of the page shows the arrangement
for tensioning the shrouds using a clam cleat, setting up with the shrouds
slack, and then quick tensioning.)
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Above: the mast ready to be raised, the port shroud
free still
(and a boat being rigged conventionally next door) |
Rigging the mast on the hull frame
Whichever
way the mast is rigged up, it seems easier to set it up
before
the hulls are in place.
When raising the mast in one piece, as
above, having the heel at ground level makes it almost
trouble-free (or at least the trouble is seen sooner and is
easy to rescue, as if the ball pops out, the mast can still go
up to the vertical, and be lifted the 6” up into position)
Tipping the boat over to rig the topmast in the usual
way must also be easier with the frame only.
The downside is kneeling to tension the trampoline, and to rig the shroud
tackles (but the latter is quick, with the shroud tackles in place, as
noted above)
I had expected another disadvantage, that fitting the hulls would
be clumsier with the greater weight with the mast up, but in fact there
is another advantage, from the greater inertia in the whole rig while
the tubes are being pulled along their tracks. This might help with
pulling on the heavier Hypalon hulls. (I
have the lighter original blue hulls)

The other rigging aid is a
sprayed on, as Halford’s Silicone lubricant along all the bolt ropes--of
the sail, of the trampoline (carefully) and of the inflatable hulls. The
sail can become too fluid, cascading down as the mast hook is released.
Left:
Shroud tensioning. As seen, I have repositioned the mast heel line
to cross the trampoline forward, to avoid catching and
tripping it.
The tail is held in a clam cleat---releasing this
allows a foot or so of movement, to give sufficient slack to
rig. It is straightforward to mark the setup positions at the
cam and clam cleats.
Alastair
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As the photo left
shows, it produces something which looks more like a concept
than a boat. I think there must be an instinct to make a "boat"
before rigging it, so doing it in this order is still a minority
approach, like pointing out that the earth is not flat.
Another piece of packaging is having the halliards wound onto a
1 metre frame, to tie onto the topmast for travelling.
There are
small gains in time elsewhere. I have replaced the sail head
shackle with a hook (for its 2 minutes of use each day, safely
under a load when going up).
At the
foot of the mast where the halyard turns around the roller to be
pulled up, I successively added to the diameter of the roller,
and then cannibalised a ball bearing block (with balls jumping
around the garage at times) to give free running.
An expensive small gain is from
captive-pin shackles for the shrouds and trapeze, and similarly it
seemed worthwhile to get a somewhat oversized sailbag made up quickly by
Dolphin to speed use.
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